Russian climber Alexander Gukov recounted how he became trapped over 6,000 metres (20,000 feet) above sea level on Pakistan's Latok I peak, in the Karakoram Mountain Range, during an interview from a Pakistani military hospital in Rawalpindi, Wednesday.
Gukov said bad weather prevented him and his companion, Sergei Glazunov, from reaching the peak of the mountain. They began their descent but when Glazunov was fixing the anchor stations for the rope, he fell. Gukov said he then began "shouting for him Sergei, Sergei, are you ok or not. But I didn't, nobody replying, so I fit the ice screw, lowered down, and I found that he fell down. And I was alone with two ropes only, without any gear, because he had all the gear."
When asked if he was conscious during his ordeal, Gukov said he was, but that with each day he began having more and more "hallucinations and dreams, that everything is over, that I am at home, I am with my friend, but every morning when I woke, I opened my eyes, I saw that I am in the same position."
Gukov was stranded over 6,000 metres (20,000 feet) above sea level for nearly seven days after his companion Sergei Glazunov fell to his death while attempting to descend. On the seventh day, better weather conditions permitted a Pakistani army helicopter to approach the peak and rescue him, and rushed him to a military hospital. Latok I is known as one of the most difficult peaks to climb, and the north ridge has never been scaled, though Gukov and Glazunov came the closest.
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